Chain wear, categorised as chain stretch, becomes a concern with extensive cycling. The wear is removal of material from the bushings and pins (or half-bushings, in the Sedis style, also, called “bushing-less”, where in fact the bushing is part of the internal plate) instead of elongation of the sideplates.[8] The tension produced by pedaling is insufficient to cause the latter. As the spacing from connect to hyperlink on a put on chain is longer compared to the 1⁄2 in . (12.7 mm) specification, those links will not precisely fit the areas between teeth on the sprockets, leading to increased wear on the sprockets and perhaps chain skip upon derailleur drive trains, where pedaling tension causes the chain to slide up more than the tops of the sprocket teeth and skip to the next alignment, that reduces power transfer and makes pedaling uncomfortable.

Since chain wear is strongly frustrated by dirt getting into the links, the lifetime of a chain agricultural Chain depends mostly about how well it really is cleaned (and lubricated) and does not depend on the mechanical load.[6] Therefore, well-groomed chains of heavily used racing bicycles will most likely last longer when compared to a chain on a lightly used city bike that’s cleaned less. Depending on make use of and cleaning, a chain can last only one 1,000 kilometres (600 miles) (electronic.g. in cross-country use, or all-weather make use of), 3,000 to 5,000 km (2,000 to 3,000 mi) for well-managed derailleur chains, or even more than 6,000 kilometres (4,000 mi) for properly groomed high-quality chains, single-gear, or hub-gear chains (ideally with a complete cover chain guard).[9][10]

Nickel-plated chain also confers a way of measuring self-lubrication to its moving parts as nickel is certainly a relatively non-galling steel.[dubious – discuss]

Chain wear prices are highly variable, so replacement by calendar is likely premature or continued usage of a worn chain, damaging to rear sprockets. One way to measure wear is with a ruler or machinist’s guideline.[11] Another has been a chain wear device, which typically has a “tooth” of about the same size entirely on a sprocket. They are simply just positioned on a chain under light load and report a “go/no-proceed” result-if the tooth drops in every the way, the chain ought to be replaced.

Twenty half-links in a fresh chain measure 10 inches (254 mm), and substitute is recommended before the old chain measures 10 1⁄16 inches (256 mm) (0.7% wear).[5] A safer time to displace a chain is when 24 half-links in the outdated chain measure 12 1⁄16 in . (306 mm) (0.5% wear). If the chain offers put on beyond this limit, the trunk sprockets are also likely to wear, in extreme cases followed by leading chainrings. In this instance, the ‘skipping’ mentioned previously is liable to keep even after the chain is changed, as the teeth of the sprockets will have become unevenly put on (in extreme cases, hook-shaped). Replacing worn sprocket cassettes and chainrings after lacking the chain substitute window is much more expensive than replacing a put on chain.